Ingredients

  • 1 teaspoon whole cumin seeds
  • 3 whole cloves
  • 1/2 teaspoon dried Mexican oregano leaves
  • 5 dried guajillo chiles
  • 5 dried negro chiles (also called pasilla negro)
  • 2 dried ancho chiles
  • 1 (3-pound) pineapple (about 1 1/4 pounds fresh pineapple meat)
  • 1 large white onion
  • 2 medium garlic cloves, peeled
  • 2 tablespoons cider vinegar
  • 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice (from about 1 medium lime)
  • 2 teaspoons kosher salt, plus more as needed
  • 2 to 2 1/2 pounds boneless pork loin, sliced crosswise 1/3 inch thick
  • 10 (6-inch) soft corn tortillas
  • Vegetable oil, for grilling
  • 1/2 cup packed coarsely chopped fresh cilantro
  • Hot salsa, for serving (optional)
  • Lime wedges, for serving (optional)

Method

  • Place the cumin seeds in a medium frying pan or cast iron pan and toast over medium heat, shaking the pan often, until fragrant, about 2 to 3 minutes.
  • Transfer to a spice grinder and let cool slightly.
  • Set the pan aside.
  • Add the cloves and oregano to the spice grinder and process to a fine powder; transfer the spice mixture to a blender and set aside.
  • Rinse the chiles under cold running water, then dry well with paper towels.
  • Place the chiles in the pan used to toast the cumin and roast over medium heat, turning occasionally, until fragrant, about 3 to 5 minutes.
  • Transfer to a cutting board to cool.
  • Wearing rubber gloves, cut the chiles in half lengthwise and discard the seeds and stems.
  • Place the chiles in a medium saucepan, cover with water, and bring to a boil.
  • Reduce the heat to medium low and simmer until softened, about 5 minutes.
  • Remove from heat.
  • Set aside 1/2 cup of the chile cooking liquid and let cool.
  • Let the chiles sit in the saucepan of hot liquid for 5 minutes more.
  • Drain the chiles and let cool.
  • While the chiles are cooking and cooling, peel the pineapple and cut it in half lengthwise.
  • Set one half in the refrigerator for later use.
  • Cut the remaining piece in half lengthwise again; remove and discard the core.
  • Cut the pineapple into rough chunks and place in the blender.
  • Cut the onion in half.
  • Place one half in the refrigerator for later use.
  • Coarsely chop the remaining half (you should have about 1 cup) and add it to the blender.
  • Add the garlic, cider vinegar, lime juice, measured salt, cooled chiles, and cooled chile liquid to the blender and blend on high to a smooth puree.
  • Place the pork slices in a large resealable plastic bag.
  • Pour the puree over the pork, making sure each slice is coated with the marinade.
  • Seal and let marinate in the refrigerator for at least 4 hours or overnight (overnight is ideal).
  • When the pork is ready, cut the remaining pineapple half crosswise into 1/2-inch-thick slices and remove the core from each slice; set aside.
  • Finely chop the remaining onion half and place in a small bowl; set aside.
  • Transfer the pork slices from the bag to a medium bowl, leaving as much marinade as possible in the bag.
  • Strain the marinade through a fine-mesh strainer set over a small saucepan; discard the solids.
  • Place the saucepan over medium-high heat and bring to a rolling boil.
  • Lower the heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 2 minutes.
  • Taste and season with salt as needed.
  • Remove from heat and set aside.
  • Meanwhile, heat a grill pan over high heat until smoking or an outdoor grill to between 600 degrees F and 800 degrees F.
  • In a cast iron skillet, warm the tortillas one by one.
  • Transfer to a warm plate and cover with a towel.
  • When the grill or grill pan is hot, use tongs to rub the pan or grate with a towel dipped in vegetable oil.
  • Season the pineapple slices with salt and grill until lightly charred on both sides, about 4 minutes per side.
  • Cut into small dice, place in a small bowl, and set aside.
  • Season the pork slices on each side with salt and grill until lightly charred, about 1 to 1 1/2 minutes per side.
  • Transfer to a clean cutting board and cut against the grain into 1/3-by-2-inch slices; transfer to a medium bowl.
  • If you choose, add 1/3 cup of the reserved marinade to the pork and toss to coat.
  • To serve, place 1/4 to 1/3 cup pork in each tortilla.
  • Top each with about 2 tablespoons of the grilled pineapple and a sprinkle each of the onions and cilantro.
  • Serve immediately with, if you choose, salsa, lime wedges, and the last of the reserved marinade.