Ingredients

  • 2 strips thick-sliced bacon (preferably applewood-smoked), diced
  • 1/4 cup white wine or vermouth
  • 1 pint shucked oysters, drained and rinsed
  • 1 tablespoon butter, plus softened butter for spreading
  • 1/4 cup finely chopped onion
  • 1/4 cup finely chopped celery
  • 23 leeks, washed and thinly sliced (about 1 cup) (see technique for cleaning leeks, p. 109)
  • 2 tablespoons flour
  • 1/4 cup milk
  • 1/2 cup cream
  • 1/2 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme or sage
  • 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
  • Salt and pepper
  • Hot sauce
  • 4 thick slices (1/2 inch) good-quality white bread or brioche, halved into triangles
  • Minced scallions or snipped fresh chives, for garnish

Method

  • In a large skillet, cook the bacon until crispy.
  • Transfer it to a plate topped with paper towels, then drain the skillet of all but 1 tablespoon fat; set the skillet aside.
  • Heat the white wine in a medium skillet over medium-high heat.
  • When it starts to simmer, add the oysters and poach just until the edges start to curl, about 4 minutes (reduce the heat if the simmer gets too lively).
  • Drain the oysters in a fine colander placed over a large bowl, reserving the poaching liquid.
  • Reheat the skillet with bacon fat over medium-high heat and add the 1 tablespoon butter.
  • When the foaming subsides, add the onion, celery, and leeks and cook until fragrant and softened, 34 minutes.
  • Sprinkle the vegetables with flour, then whisk in the reserved oyster poaching liquid.
  • Simmer over medium heat, continuously whisking, for 3 minutes.
  • Add the milk, cream, and herb and bring to a boil.
  • Reduce the heat and simmer gently until thickened and creamy, about 5 minutes.
  • Add the lemon juice and salt, pepper, and hot sauce to taste.
  • When the sauce is thick enough to coat a spoon, remove it from the heat and keep warm.
  • Toast the bread; spread with softened butter and place it on a platter or individual plates.
  • Stir the oysters into the sauce and warm through, over low heat.
  • To serve, spoon the oysters over the toast and sprinkle with bacon.
  • Top with green onions or chives, if desired.
  • Ive eaten oysters all over the world.
  • When it comes to slurping them raw, from the half shell, I love oysters from the Pacific (like the Japanese varieties), because they taste briny, like the ocean.
  • But when it comes to cooking, nothing beats Louisiana oysters.
  • They come from the brackish waters where the salt water of the Gulf mingles with the fresh water of the bayou and rivers, so they have a milder flavor that blends better with other ingredients.
  • Because Louisiana oysters are larger, theyre less likely to overcook in a poaching pan.
  • I may be biased, but I definitely think theyre the most versatile oysters in the kitchen.
  • For my favorite sources, see p. 384.