Ingredients

  • 1 small napa cabbage
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 5 dried shiitake mushrooms
  • 2 pieces commercial deep-fried tofu (optional)
  • 1 box extra-firm silken tofu or 1/2 carton soft tofu
  • 2 teaspoons roasted peanut oil
  • 1/4 cup chopped scallions, including half of the greens
  • 1/2 pound fresh mushrooms, brown, white, or shiitake, chopped
  • 1 tablespoon minced garlic
  • 2 heaping tablespoons minced ginger
  • 2 teaspoons rice wine vinegar
  • 1/2 teaspoon ground Szechuan peppercorns
  • 1 tablespoon soy sauce
  • 1/4 cup chopped cilantro, plus cilantro sprigs for garnish
  • 15 egg roll wrappers
  • 2 cups peanut oil, for frying

Method

  • Quarter the cabbage lengthwise, then slice it crosswise into thin strips.
  • Measure 5 cups, place in a colander, and sprinkle lightly with salt.
  • Toss and set aside.
  • Boil several cups of water.
  • Pour half over the deep-fried tofu, if using, to rid it of the extra oil.
  • Pour just enough to cover the dried mushrooms and let steep for 15 minutes.
  • Squeeze them dry, remove and discard the stems, and thinly slice the caps.
  • Cut the fried tofu into slivers and the fresh tofu into tiny cubes.
  • Bring 1 quart water to a boil in a 10 to 12 inch skillet, add 1 teaspoon salt, then lower the heat to a simmer.
  • Carefully add the fresh tofu and cook for 2 minutes.
  • Remove and set on a cloth towel to drain.
  • Heat the oil in a wok or nonstick skillet.
  • When hot, add the scallions and fresh and dried mushrooms.
  • Saute quickly over brisk heat for 1 minute, then scrape the mixture into a bowl.
  • Squeeze the moisture out of the cabbage and add it to the scallion mixture along with the remaining ingredients.
  • Taste, adjust salt, add pepper, and make sure the seasonings are bright and lively.
  • Lay an egg roll wrapper on the counter facing you on the diagonal.
  • Place about 3 tablespoons filling in the center.
  • Brush a strip of water around the edges, then fold the bottom up, the sides over, and roll.
  • Repeat until all the filling is used.
  • Heat 2 cups peanut oil in a wok or skillet.
  • When hot enough to sizzle a corner of a wrapper, add a roll and fry, turning once, until golden and crisp.
  • Remove to drain on a paper towel and repeat until all are done.
  • Cut them in half on the diagonal, arrange on a platter, and garnish with long sprigs of cilantro.
  • Serve with hot mustard for dipping.