Ingredients

  • 6 to 8 cups hot beef stock (chicken or turkey broth could be substituted)
  • 1/2 teaspoon loosely packed saffron threads
  • 1 1/2 pounds beef marrow bones, preferably center-cut from the leg bone
  • 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  • 2 cups finely chopped onions
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
  • 2 cups Italian short-grain rice, such as Arborio, Carnaroli, or Vialone Nano
  • 1 cup dry white wine
  • 2 tablespoons butter, cut in pieces
  • 1/2 cup grated Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus more for passing
  • A heavy-bottomed saucepan, such as enameled cast iron, 10 inches wide, 3-to-4-quart capacity

Method

  • Heat the stock in a separate pot almost to the boil, and keep it very hot, near the risotto pan.
  • Pour about 1/2 cup of the stock into a heatproof cup.
  • To toast the saffron (for more flavor): Drop the strands into the bowl of a metal spoon, separating them a bit.
  • Hold the spoon over a low open flame for just a few seconds, until the aroma is released, then spill the threads into the 1/2 cup stock.
  • Let them steep in a warm place.
  • Scrape the marrow out of the bones with a sturdy paring knifedont scrape off any bits of bone (if you do, pick them out).
  • Chop the marrow into little pieces: you should have about 1/3 cup total.
  • Put the olive oil and marrow bits in the heavy saucepan, and set it over medium heat.
  • As the marrow melts, stir in the chopped onions and 1 teaspoon salt.
  • Cook, stirring occasionally, for several minutes, until the onions are wilted and just starting to color, thento soften the onions furtherladle in 1/2 cup hot stock from the pot and let it simmer until completely evaporated.
  • Add the rice all at once, raise the heat, and stir for a couple of minutes, until the grains are toasted (but not browned).
  • Pour in the wine, and cook, stirring continuously, until nearly all of the liquid has been absorbed.
  • Ladle in 2 cups of the hot stock, and stir steadily as the rice absorbs the liquid and begins to release its starch.
  • When you can see the bottom of the pan as you stir, after 5 minutes or so, quickly ladle in another couple of cups of stock and the remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt.
  • Cook, stirring, until the stock is again almost completely absorbed.
  • Now pour in the saffron-infused stock along with a cup or so of hot stock from the pot.
  • Cook, stirring, until the liquid is absorbed and the saffron color has spread.
  • Check the risotto for doneness: it should be creamy but still al dente.
  • Incorporate more stock if necessary.
  • When the risotto is fully cooked, turn off the heat, drop in the butter pieces, and stir vigorously until thoroughly amalgamated.
  • Stir in the 1/2 cup of grated cheese, and spoon into warm pasta bowls.
  • Serve immediately, passing additional grated cheese at the table.