Ingredients

  • 1/2 small onion, chopped
  • 1 garlic clove, chopped
  • 1 tablespoon olive oil
  • 1 1/2 lb fresh tomatoes, coarsely chopped, or 1 (14- to 16-oz) can whole tomatoes with juice plus 1 cup water
  • 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
  • 1 1/2 lb cleaned large squid, rinsed well
  • 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
  • 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  • 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
  • 1/4 cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
  • 1/2 small onion, finely chopped
  • 1 small leek (green part only), washed well and finely chopped
  • 1 garlic clove, finely chopped
  • 1 tablespoon olive oil
  • 1/2 lb bones and trimmings of any white fish such as sole, flounder, or whiting
  • 3 cups water
  • 1 cup dry white wine
  • 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
  • 1 medium onion, minced
  • 2 garlic cloves, minced
  • 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt, or to taste
  • 8 oz very thin fideos in nests (cabello de angel), broken up, or capellini, broken into 2-inch pieces

Method

  • Cook onion and garlic in oil in a 3-quart heavy saucepan over moderately low heat, stirring, until softened, about 3 minutes.
  • Add tomatoes (with water if using canned) and sea salt and simmer, covered, stirring occasionally (and breaking up tomatoes if using canned), 40 minutes.
  • Puree sauce in a blender (use caution when blending hot liquids), then force through a fine sieve into a bowl, discarding solids.
  • Finely chop squid tentacles and chill until ready to use for fish stock and pasta.
  • Cut squid bodies open with kitchen shears, then rinse insides well and pat bodies dry.
  • Lay each body flat on a cutting board, interior side up, and cut lengthwise (including flaps) into thin spaghetti-like strips (less than 1/8 inch wide) with a sharp knife.
  • Chill strips, covered, until ready to use.
  • Cook onion, leek greens, and garlic in oil in a 3- to 4-quart heavy saucepan over moderately low heat, stirring, until softened, about 3 minutes.
  • Add fish bones and trimmings and half of chopped tentacles and cook, covered, stirring occasionally, until tentacles release their liquid, about 2 minutes.
  • Add water, wine, and sea salt and bring to a simmer, skimming froth.
  • Remove from heat and let stand, uncovered, 15 minutes.
  • Pour stock through fine sieve into a bowl, pressing on and discarding solids.
  • Cook onion and garlic in oil in a deep 12-inch heavy skillet over moderate heat, stirring, until well softened, 3 to 5 minutes.
  • Add remaining chopped tentacles and cook, stirring, until they release their liquid, about 2 minutes.
  • Add 1 1/2 cups tomato sauce, 3 cups fish stock, and sea salt and bring to a boil, stirring occasionally.
  • (Leftover sauce and stock can be reserved for another use.)
  • Stir in pasta and return to a boil, stirring.
  • Remove from heat and let stand, covered, until pasta is cooked through, about 5 minutes.
  • Toss squid strips with sea salt.
  • Heat oil in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over high heat until hot but not smoking, then saute garlic, stirring, until golden, about 1 minute.
  • Add squid and parsley and cook, stirring, 30 seconds.
  • (Squid will still be partially translucent but will continue to cook from residual heat.)
  • Mound squid on top of pasta and serve immediately.