Ingredients

  • 1 (1-pound) loaf crusty Italian bread, crusts removed and bread cut into 1-inch cubes, or 2 cups panko bread crumbs, finely ground in a food processor
  • 3 3/4 cups homemade chicken stock or store-bought low-sodium chicken broth, divided (see note)
  • 2 packets (1/2 ounce) unflavored gelatin (only if using store-bought chicken broth or homemade broth that remains watery when chilled; see note)
  • 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 medium yellow onion, finely diced (about 1 cup)
  • 2 cups short-grain Asian rice (see note)
  • 1 cup dry white wine
  • 2 pinches saffron, divided
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour, divided
  • 1/4 cup milk
  • 2 large eggs, beaten
  • 1 pound low-moisture mozzarella, diced
  • Vegetable, canola, or other neutral oil, for frying

Method

  • Preheat oven to 300°F. Place bread cubes on a rack set in a rimmed baking sheet and bake in oven until completely dried out, about 30 minutes.
  • If using store-bought chicken broth or homemade broth that remains watery when chilled, place stock in a large liquid measuring cup and sprinkle gelatin over the top. Set aside.
  • Heat oil in Pressure cooker over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened and translucent, about 4 minutes. Add rice and cook, stirring, until rice is evenly coated in oil and toasted but not browned, 3-4 minutes (rice grains should start to look like tiny ice cubes: translucent around the edges and cloudy in the center). Add wine and cook, stirring, until raw alcohol smell has cooked off and wine is almost fully evaporated, about 2 minutes. Stir in 3 cups broth and 1 pinch saffron, scrape any grains of rice or pieces of onion from side of pressure cooker so that they are fully submerged; season with salt. Close pressure cooker and bring up to low pressure (10 psi on most units). Cook at low pressure for 6 minutes, then depressurize cooker either by running it under cold water if it is not electric, or using the steam-release valve if it is electric. Return to heat and stir rice until it forms the texture of a thick porridge. Season with salt and pepper.
  • Heat oil in large saucier pan or Dutch oven over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened and translucent, about 4 minutes. Add rice and cook, stirring, until rice is evenly coated in oil and toasted but not browned, 3-4 minutes (rice grains should start to look like tiny ice cubes: translucent around the edges and cloudy in the center). Add wine and cook, stirring, until raw alcohol smell has cooked off and wine is almost fully evaporated, about 2 minutes. Stir in 2 cups stock and 1 pinch saffron, scrape any grains of rice or pieces of onion from side of pressure cooker so that they are fully submerged; season with salt. When liquid has mostly evaporated, stir in 1 more cup stock and cook, stirring frequently, until liquid has mostly evaporated. Stir in water 1/4 cup at a time until rice is just tender and has formed the texture of a thick porridge. Season with salt and pepper.
  • Meanwhile, in a small saucier or saucepan, melt butter over medium-high heat until foaming. Stir in 2 tablespoons flour to form a paste, lower heat to medium, and cook, stirring constantly, until raw-flour smell is gone but flour has not browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Whisk in milk and remaining 3/4 cup stock until smooth, and add remaining 1 pinch saffron. Bring to a simmer, and continue to cook, stirring, until bechamel sauce is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, about 4 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Let cool slightly, then whisk in eggs.
  • Scrape rice into large mixing bowl along with bechamel sauce and stir until thoroughly incorporated. Line 2 rimmed baking sheets with parchment and scrape rice filling onto each one, spreading it in a thin, even layer. Refrigerate rice filling until thoroughly chilled and thickened, at least 1 hour.
  • Meanwhile, if making homemade bread crumbs, transfer dried bread cubes to a food processor and process until finely ground. Transfer homemade breadcrumbs or ground panko to a plate.
  • In a shallow bowl, whisk remaining 1/4 cup flour with 1/4 cup water to form a smooth paste, then whisk in an additional 1/4 cup water to form a slurry.
  • Transfer chilled rice filling to a large mixing bowl and re-line rimmed sheets with fresh parchment paper. Scoop a small handful (about 1/4 cup) of rice filling in one hand (avoid wetting hands with water even though filling is sticky) and form it into a flat disk. Place a few small pieces of mozzarella in center of disk and fold rice filling around it to form a sphere with the cheese in the center. It may be difficult to form a perfect sphere at this point, but that's okay.
  • Roll rice ball in flour slurry, then transfer to breadcrumbs and roll to coat. The rice ball may feel a little soft at this point, but you should be able to coat it in the crumbs and just manage to maintain a roughly spherical shape. Transfer to parchment and repeat with remaining rice filling, cheese, and coatings.
  • Fill a saucepan at least 4 inches deep with vegetable oil and heat to 375°F. Pick up one breaded rice ball and re-form it into a sphere (it should now more easily take that shape). Gently set it on a slotted spoon and lower it into the oil. Repeat with remaining rice balls, working in batches and topping up oil as needed. Fry rice balls until golden brown, then, using a slotted spoon or spider, lift them one by one from the oil, allowing excess oil to drip off, then transfer to paper towel-lined baking sheets or plates. Let cool slightly, then serve. Rice balls can be allowed to cool, then stored in the refrigerator. Reheat in a 350°F oven.