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Ingredients

  • 1 tablespoon coarse sea salt
  • 1 bottle dry white wine
  • 24 to 27 leaves fresh sage
  • 12 farm-raised quail, cleaned; their livers reserved for another use
  • 12 to 15 large branches of rosemary
  • 8 to 10 branches of thyme
  • Several wild fennel fronds or the fronds of a bulb of fresh fennel
  • 3 fat cloves garlic, their skins intact, lightly crushed

Method

  • In a large soup kettle, bring to a simmer 2 quarts of water and the sea salt.
  • Add the bottle of white wine and permit the liquid to return to a simmer.
  • Place a leaf of sage inside the cavity of each bird.
  • Slide four or more of the quail into the simmering liquidsas many as will fit comfortably.
  • As the liquids once more return to a gentle simmer, lower the flame and poach the birds for 10 to 12 minutes, until their breast flesh feels firm when poked a bit with a finger.
  • The time will vary with the weight of the birds.
  • If youve kept the liquid barely simmering and have resisted leaving the birds too long in their bath, their meat will be succulent, tender.
  • Have on hand a brown paper bag or a rededicated pillowcase.
  • While the quail poach, ready the sack by laying it on its side and fashioning a cushion of the herbs and garlic.
  • One cannot use too many herbs for this purpose.
  • Remove the quail from their poaching liquors with a large slotted spoon.
  • Position the birds directly inside the herb-lined sack.
  • Close the sack and continue the poaching process until all the quail are cooked and safely nested inside.
  • If using chicken or capon, relieve the birds of their skins after the poaching process.
  • Fasten the sack with some butchers twine and leave it to rest at cool room temperature for 8 or 10 hours or as many more as your patience permits.
  • A Sard will tell you to let the birds rest for two days.
  • When you are ready, serve the quail at room temperature as a starter course, presenting them on cushions of warm, just-toasted bread and glossing them with tears of good, green oil, flattering the savor of the herbed birds.
  • Jugs of cold white wine are welcome.