Potato Gnocchi - kosher salt

Method

• Preheat the oven to 425 degrees F.
• Spread a layer of kosher salt on a baking sheet and arrange the potatoes on top (see Cook's Note).
• Bake until a bit overcooked, about 45 minutes.
• Let sit until cool enough to handle, cut in half, and scoop out the flesh.
• Reserve the potato skins, if desired, for another use.
• Pass the potatoes through a potato ricer or grate them on the large holes of a box grater.
• You should have about 2 cups.
• Make a mound of potatoes on the counter with a well in the middle, add 3 of the egg yolks, the cheese, nutmeg, salt, and pepper.
• Mix in the potatoes and mix well with hands.
• Sprinkle 1/2 cup of the flour over the potatoes and, using your knuckles, press it into the potatoes.
• Fold the mass over on itself and press down again.
• Sprinkle on more flour, little by little, folding and pressing the dough until it just holds together, (try not to knead it.)
• Work any dough clinging to your fingers back into the dough.
• If the mixture is too dry, add another egg yolk or a little water.
• The dough should give under slight pressure.
• It will feel firm but yielding.
• To test if the dough is the correct consistency, take a piece and roll it with your hands on a well-floured board into a rope 1/2-inch in diameter.
• If the dough holds together, it is ready.
• If not, add more flour, fold and press the dough several more times, and test again.
• Keeping your work surface and the dough lightly floured, cut the dough into 4 pieces.
• Roll each piece into a rope about 1/2-inch in diameter.
• Cut into 1/2-inch-long pieces.
• Lightly flour the gnocchi as you cut them.
• You can cook these as is or form them into the classic gnocchi shape with a gnocchi board, ridged butter paddle, or the tines of a large fork turned upside down.
• Rest the bottom edge of the gnocchi board on the work surface, then tilt it at about a 45 degree angle.
• Take each piece and squish it lightly with your thumb against the board while simultaneously pushing it away from you.
• It will roll away and around your thumb, taking on a cupped shape -- with ridges on the outer curve from the board and a smooth surface on the inner curve where your thumb was.
• (Shaping them takes some time and dexterity.
• You might make a batch just for practice.)
• The indentation holds the sauce and helps gnocchi cook faster.
• As you shape the gnocchi, dust them lightly with flour and scatter them on baking sheets lined with parchment paper or waxed paper.
• Set gnocchi filled cookie sheet in front of a fan on low for 1/2 hour (turning gnocchi after 15 minutes).
• If you will not cook the gnocchi until the next day or later, freeze them.
• Alternatively, you can poach them now, drain and toss with a little olive oil, let cool, then refrigerate several hours or overnight.
• To reheat, dip in hot water for 10 to 15 seconds, then toss with browned butter until hot.
• When ready to cook, bring a large pot of water to a boil and add salt.
• Drop in the gnocchi and cook for about 90 seconds from the time they rise to the surface.
• Remove the cooked gnocchi with a skimmer, shake off the excess water, and serve as desired.
• Cook's Note: Baking potatoes on a layer of salt allows heat to circulate 360 degrees.
• Scrape the salt into a jar and reuse it again and again.
• If you do not have time to shape the gnocchi, you can freeze the dough, defrost it in the refrigerator, and then shape it.
• To freeze shaped gnocchi, line baking sheets with waxed paper and dust with flour.
• Spread the gnocchi on the prepared sheets and freeze until hard.
• Remove to individual-portion-size freezer bags.
• Store in the freezer for up to 1 month.
• To cook, drop the frozen gnocchi into boiling salted water.
• Cook for about 2 minutes after they rise to the surface.