Ingredients

  • 3/4 pound crunchy cucumbers without big seeds (preferably a few varieties), peeled and cut into irregular 3/4-inch pieces
  • Generous 1 pound mixed heirloom tomatoes, halved, cored, trimmed of any pale bits, and cut into irregular 1-inch pieces
  • 1/4 pound cherry tomatoes (about 3/4 cup), halved through the stem end if large
  • 2 slender spring onions, green tops and root ends trimmed, bulbs cut into 1/4-inch-thick rounds and separated into rings (about 1/2 cup)
  • 2 tablespoons Banyuls vinegar (available at specialty shops and online)
  • 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  • Maldon or another flaky sea salt
  • 1 tablespoon lemon juice
  • 20 or so Nicoise olives, firmly pressed with the flat of a knife and pitted
  • A five-finger pinch of mint leaves (preferably black mint)
  • 5 ounces creamy feta cheese (preferably goat feta)

Method

  • Put the cucumbers and tomatoes in separate bowls and pop them in the fridge just until they're cold, about 30 minutes.
  • Meanwhile, add the onions to a small bowl.
  • Add the vinegar, 2 tablespoons of the oil, and a healthy pinch of salt, and mix well with your hands.
  • Let the onions sit just until they get pickly, a few minutes.
  • In a separate small bowl, stir together the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil, the lemon juice, and a good pinch of salt until the mixture looks creamy.
  • Combine the tomatoes and cucumber in one bowl, pour in the lemon dressing, and toss gently but well.
  • Grab a large platter (or 4 to 6 plates) and make a pretty layer of cucumbers and tomatoes, so the colors and types of the vegetables are well divvied up.
  • Give the onions one more toss, then use your hands to add them (reserving their pickly liquid) here and there over the cucumbers and tomatoes.
  • Scatter on the olives and mint.
  • Use your hands to crumble the feta into pieces large, medium, and small as you scatter it on top.
  • Finally, drizzle on the liquid remaining in the onion bowl.
  • Eat straightaway.
  • Photo by David Loftus