Ingredients

  • 2 pounds boneless baccala (salt cod)
  • 1 cup or more flour, for dredging
  • 4 tablespoons butter
  • 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  • 2 medium onions (1 pound), peeled, halved, and sliced 1/4 inch thick
  • 1 quart milk, or more if needed
  • 1 cup grated Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, or more as needed
  • Baked Polenta, page 111 (finish and serve with baccala per instructions below)
  • A heavy-bottomed saucepan or high-sided saute pan, 10-to-12-inch diameter, with a cover
  • A baking dish or shallow casserole, 9 by 13 inches or similar size

Method

  • To remove the salt from the salt cod, put it in a large, deep container that fits in your sink, under the faucet.
  • Run fresh cold water over the fish, filling the container completely so water is spilling over the brim.
  • Keep a slow, steady drip of fresh water going as you soak the baccala for at least 12 hours, up to a couple of days.
  • Occasionally drain the water and refresh (which you can do whenever you need the sink).
  • If you cant keep the drip going, change the water every 4 hours.
  • To decide when baccala has been soaked sufficiently, lift the fish out of the water, press a finger against it at a thick part, and touch it to the tongue.
  • If its palatably salty, it is ready to be cooked.
  • Drain the baccala, pat dry, and cook within a day or so; meanwhile, store it in the refrigerator, well wrapped.
  • Cut the baccala into chunks about 3 inches square, and dredge on all sides in flour.
  • Put the butter and olive oil in the saucepan, and set over medium heat.
  • When the butter is foaming, lay in a batch of floured codfish chunks in one layer, not crowded.
  • Cook and color the underside for several minutes, turn the chunks, and crisp and color the other sides.
  • When lightly browned all over, remove to a platter.
  • Fry the remaining chunks the same way.
  • Dump the onion slices into the pan, and toss well in the remaining fat.
  • As the onions start to sizzle and wilt, pour in 1/2 cup water, and stir and scrape up the browned bits on the pan bottom.
  • Cook the onions, stirring frequently, until wilted and translucent, 8 to 10 minutes.
  • Meanwhile, heat the milk in a separate pan, almost to a simmer.
  • Lay the baccala chunks on top of the caramelized onions, nestling all the chunks in one layer.
  • Pour in any juices from the fish platter, and enough hot milk to cover the fish completely.
  • Over medium heat, bring the milk to a gentle bubbling simmer.
  • Set the cover slightly ajar, and simmer the baccala for about an hour and a half, until the fish chunks break apart when stirred.
  • Uncover the pan, and maintain the slow simmer to gradually reduce the milk (which by now has curdled and separatedno cause for concern).
  • Stir the fish occasionally, and break up the flakes into smaller pieces.
  • As the moisture evaporates, lower the heat and scrape up any crust on the pan bottom, to avoid burning.
  • Cook uncovered, slowly, for 2 to 2 1/2 hours, until the baccala and milk have melded into a thick sauce, about half the original volume.
  • (If you need to shorten the cooking time, boil the milk over higher heat, but be sure to stir the baccala and scrape the saucepan frequently.)
  • When it is fully cooked and thickened in the saucepan, pour the hot baccala into the baking dish and spread it in an even layer.
  • Heat the oven to 350 , and set a rack in the center.
  • Sprinkle the grated Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano over the top of the baccala, and bake for about an hour, or until the top is crusty and browned.
  • Bake slices of firm polenta, topped with grated cheese, during the last 15 or 20 minutes that the baccala is in the oven.
  • To serve, put a slice or more of crisp polenta in a plate, and spoon some hot baccala alongside.