Ingredients

  • 8 1/4 cups water
  • 2/3 cup large (3/4- to 1/4-inch) pearl tapioca (not quick-cooking)
  • 1/2 cup grated or crumbled dark palm sugar (4 oz)*
  • 2 (13- to 14-oz) cans unsweetened coconut milk (do not shake)
  • 2 firm-ripe mangoes (1 1/2 lb total), peeled, pitted, and cut into 1/4-inch pieces
  • 1 lb firm-ripe papaya (preferably red), peeled, seeded, and cut into 1/4-inch pieces
  • 1/2 pineapple, peeled, cored, and cut into 1/4-inch pieces
  • 2 cups shaved ice
  • Garnish: fresh coconut shavings, toasted
  • Special equipment: an ice shaver, preferably manual

Method

  • Bring 8 cups water to a boil in a 2-quart saucepan and add tapioca, stirring constantly.
  • Gently boil, stirring occasionally, until tapioca is almost completely translucent, 40 minutes to 1 1/2 hours, depending on size of tapioca.
  • Remove from heat and let tapioca stand, covered, until completely translucent, 45 minutes to 1 1/2 hours, depending on size.
  • While tapioca is standing, bring sugar, a pinch of salt, and remaining 1/4 cup water to a simmer in a small heavy saucepan, stirring until sugar is dissolved.
  • Simmer syrup until slightly thickened, about 5 minutes.
  • Scoop out 3/4 cup (total) of thick layer of coconut cream from tops of cans (reserving remainder for another use) and whisk into syrup until combined well.
  • Chill syrup until cold, about 1 hour.
  • Add 3 cups cold water to translucent tapioca, then drain in a sieve.
  • Transfer tapioca to a large bowl filled halfway with cold water, swirl, and then drain in sieve.
  • (This removes excess starch.)
  • Spoon 3 tablespoons syrup into each of 4 glasses (there will be some left over), then divide fruit and tapioca among them.
  • Top with shaved ice.
  • *Available at Asian markets and Uwajimaya (800-889-1928).