Mushroom Ragu - porcini

Method

• Squeeze out the soaked porcini, and slice them into pieces about 1/4 inch wide.
• Strain the soaking water, and keep it in a warm spot.
• Clean, trim, and slice the fresh mushrooms into moderately thin slices, barely 1/4 inch wide.
• Tie all the fresh herb sprigs together with a piece of kitchen twine, or enclose the leaves in cheesecloth.
• Put the oil and butter in the big skillet (or other saucepan) and place over medium heat.
• When the butter has melted, dump in the shallots and onion and 1/4 teaspoon of salt, and stir well.
• Heat the onions to a slow sizzle and cook for 6 minutes or more-stirring often-until theyre soft, wilted, and shiny, without any browning.
• Pour all the mushrooms into the pan-both the chopped porcini and the sliced mushrooms-spread, and toss them in the pan.
• Sprinkle another 1/4 teaspoon salt, drop in the herb bouquet, toss briefly, raise the heat a bit, and cover the pan.
• Cook, covered, for about 3 minutes-shake the pan now and then-to sweat the mushrooms.
• Uncover, and continue to cook over fairly high heat, stirring frequently, as the mushrooms shrink and the liquid evaporates, 5 minutes or more.
• When the pan is dry and the mushrooms begin to brown, clear a hot spot, drop in the tomato paste, and toast it, stirring, for a minute or so, then stir it into the mushrooms.
• When everything is sizzling and browning again, and just starting to stick, pour the Marsala all over.
• Stir constantly as the wine thickens and evaporates.
• When the mushrooms again start sticking to the bottom, pour in the warm mushroom water and 2 cups of the hot broth.
• Bring to an active boil, stirring up any caramelization on the pan bottom.
• Lower the heat to keep the sauce bubbling gently all over the surface, and cover the pan.
• Cook for about 20 minutes, occasionally stirring and adding broth to keep the mushrooms nearly covered in liquid; expect to add 1/2 cup or so.
• Adjust the heat to keep the perking steady but not too rapid.
• Uncover the pan, and cook for another 20 minutes, maintaining the simmer and adding broth as needed.
• When mushrooms are thoroughly tender and the saucy liquid is thickened-but not too condensed-the sauce is done.
• Remove the herb bouquet and discard it (after you scrape off all the good sauce).
• Taste and add salt, if needed, and freshly ground black pepper to taste.
• Use the sauce immediately, or let it cool.
• Store it in the refrigerator for a week, or freeze for use within several months.
• Dry and fresh pastas
• Gnocchi
• Polenta and polenta pasticciata
• Risotto
• Baked pastas and pasticciate
• Ravioli