Muscat Ice - gooseberries

Method

• Put the gooseberries into a heavy-based saucepan or casserole.
• The fruit should be still damp from rinsing under the tap but there is no point in spending time topping and tailing it as it is going to be sieved.
• Add the florets of elder blossom, stripped from their stalks, and bury them among the fruit.
• Cover tightly and cook in a low oven until the fruit is tender and pulpy, for about 2 hours.
• Or cook over a very gentle flame if preferred.
• Add the sugar and stir until it no longer feels gritty.
• Then rub the fruit and every drop of its sugary juices through a sieve to make a perfectly smooth seeless puree.
• As soon as it is cold, spoon the pale aromatic puree into a chilled loaf tin, cover it and freeze.
• About an hour later, when the ice is firm around the edges but still soft in the centre, beat it or whizz it in a food-processor until mushy.
• Gently fold in the yoghurt, cover and freeze until solid all the way through.
• Then turn out the ice-cream, beat it again to break up any ice crystals and transfer it to 8 petit pots de chocolat.
• Cover and freeze until about 1 hour before serving, when the ice-cream should be placed in the fridge to "ripen" it.
• Amaretti biscuits go very well with this.