Ingredients

  • 1 large butternut squash (about 3 pounds)
  • 1 1/2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  • 2 teaspoons kosher salt
  • 10 or more amaretti cookies, imported from Italy
  • 3/4 cup freshly grated Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano
  • 1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
  • 1 tablespoon freshly grated lemon zest
  • 2 large eggs, beaten
  • 1 1/2 pounds dough for Homemade Tagliatelle (page 136)
  • All-purpose flour for rolling and forming the cappellacci
  • 8 tablespoons (1 stick) butter
  • 12 fresh sage leaves
  • 1 cup or so freshly grated Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus more for passing
  • A rimmed baking sheet; a food processor; a kitchen towel or cheese-cloth; a pasta-rolling machine; a 2 1/2-inch-diameter round pastry or cookie cutter; a narrow pastry brush; trays or baking sheets lined with floured parchment or kitchen towels

Method

  • Heat the oven to 400 and arrange a rack in the center.
  • Slice the squash lengthwise in half, and then quarters; scoop out and discard seeds.
  • Arrange the wedges, peel side down, on the baking sheet, drizzle olive oil over the cut surfaces of the squash, and season with 1 1/2 teaspoons of the salt.
  • Tent the squash with aluminum foil, place the sheet in the oven, and bake 45 minutes, or until the squash flesh is very soft.
  • Meanwhile, grind the amaretti cookies in a food processorusing more cookies if necessaryto make a full cup of fine-textured dry powder.
  • Let the squash cool, then scoop all the flesh from the skin and heap it on the towel or cheesecloth.
  • Bring the edges of the cloth together, enclosing the vegetable, and hold the bundle over a bowl or the sink.
  • Twist the cloth, tightening the towel and squeezing the liquid from the soft flesh.
  • When youve pressed out all the moisture you can, turn the wrung-out squash into a large bowl, and stir and mash it up with a large wooden spoon.
  • Add the ground amaretti, the remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt, the grated cheese, nutmeg, and lemon zest, and stir them into the squash.
  • Pour in the beaten eggs, and stir until thoroughly blended and smooth.
  • For the cappellacci: Cut the dough in six equal pieces and roll each out as described on pages 144145.
  • Make cappellacci from one strip at a time.
  • Lay it out in front of you on a lightly floured board.
  • With the round cutter, cut as many 2 1/2-inch circles as you can from the dough strip, pressing firmly and occasionally dipping the sharp edge of the cutter in flour so it doesnt stick.
  • Separate the circles, pulling away the scraps of dough (which can be kneaded together, rested, and rerolled for more pasta).
  • You should get about two dozen circles from the strip.
  • Place a heaping teaspoon of squash filling in the center of each dough circle.
  • With the pastry brush (or your fingertip) dipped in water, lightly moisten the rim of dough around the filling.
  • To form the cappellacci: Pick up a circle and fold it over into a half-round envelope, with the filling inside.
  • Press the moistened edges of dough together to seal.
  • Next, grasp the corners of the semicircle, twist them inward so the points of dough overlap, and pinch them together.
  • Fold and twist all the filled circles into cappellacci, arranging them in a single layer on a lined and floured tray.
  • Make more cappellacci from the other rolled strips of dough (and the rerolled scraps of dough, too).
  • Cappellacci that you will cook soon can be left on the tray, lightly covered.
  • Freeze cappellacci for future use right on the trays until solid, then transfer them to freezer bags, packed airtight and sealed.
  • To cook and serve cappellacci for four, you will need sixty to seventy pieces.
  • Fill a large pasta pot with well-salted water, and bring to the boil.
  • Meanwhile, put the butter and sage leaves in a large skillet or saute pan (at least 12 inches in diameter), and melt butter over low heat; keep the sauce warmbut not cookingso the herb infuses the butter.
  • Drop all the cappellacci into the rapidly boiling water, stir, and return to the boil over high heat.
  • Cook for 3 minutes or longer, until the thickest part of the pasta is cooked through.
  • Lift out cappellacci with a spider, drain, and lay them in the pan of sage butter.
  • Tumble the cappellacci over and over until all are coated; add a few tablespoons of pasta cooking water to extend the sauce if necessary.
  • Sprinkle a cup or so of grated cheese over the cappellacci, and spoon them into warm bowls.
  • Drizzle a bit of the sage butter left in the pan over each portion, and serve immediately, with more cheese at the table.