Ingredients

  • 1 pound chicken livers
  • 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  • 3 tablespoons butter
  • 1 medium onion, finely chopped (1 1/4 cups)
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 1 teaspoon coarse sea salt or kosher salt, or to taste, plus more for the pasta water
  • 3 cups hot stock (Poultry Broth, page 8, or chicken, turkey, or vegetable stock)
  • 1 tablespoon tomato paste
  • 1 cup frozen peas
  • Freshly ground black pepper to taste
  • 1 recipe (2 pounds) fresh bigoli, page 105
  • 1/3 cup chopped fresh Italian parsley
  • 1 1/2 cups freshly grated Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano
  • A heavy-bottomed skillet or saute pan, 14-inch diameter or larger
  • A large pot, 10-quart capacity, to cook the bigoli
  • A food processor fitted with steel blade for mixing the dough
  • A genuine torchio hand press (see Sources, page 340), or a home pasta-extruder (standalone machine or electric-mixer attachment) or meat grinder (machine or mixer attachment)

Method

  • Clean the chicken livers, removing all the fat, veins, and membranes.
  • Chop them into small bits with a chefs knife.
  • Heat 3 tablespoons of the olive oil and all the butter in the large skillet over medium heat.
  • Stir in the onion and the bay leaves, and season with 1/4 teaspoon salt.
  • When the onion is wilted and translucent, stir in the chopped chicken livers, and salt again lightly.
  • Pour in 1/4 cup hot stock, raise the heat, and cook, stirring, until the moisture is nearly evaporated.
  • Clear a space in the skillet, drop in the tomato paste, toast it in the hot spot for a minute, then stir the paste in with the chopped livers and onion.
  • Scatter the frozen peas into the skillet, stir, then pour in the remaining stock.
  • Bring the liquid to a boil, and adjust the heat to keep it bubbling steadily.
  • Season with 1/2 teaspoon salt and generous grinds of black pepper.
  • Let the sauce cook and reduce, stirring occasionally, until most of the moisture is gone and it has a thick, flowing consistency, 10 minutes or so.
  • Adjust the seasonings, and have the sauce simmering when the pasta is dressed.
  • Meanwhile, fill the large pot with 8 quarts of water, add 2 tablespoons salt, cover, and heat to a rolling boil.
  • Shake excess flour off the bigoli, drop into the pot, and return rapidly to the boil.
  • Cook, occasionally stirring, until the pasta is nearly al dente (time will vary with the thickness of the strands).
  • Lift bigoli from the water with a spider, drain briefly, and turn it into the simmering sauce.
  • Toss together until the pasta is fully cooked and dressed with sauce.
  • Turn off the heat, toss in the parsley, the remaining 3 tablespoons olive oil, and a cup of the grated cheese.
  • Serve immediately, passing more cheese at the table.